"The memory of the pack ice hissing around a wooden ship is one of the voices
that call. I sometimes feel a mute fool at meetings, society dinner parties and
dances, and the lure of the little voices I know then is at its strongest.”-Lt. Teddy
Evans (with Scott in 1910)
After a great night’s sleep we awoke to blue skies and an amazing number of
seabirds dancing among the waves. We watched the Antarctic and Cape petrels as well
the Southern fulmars follow along the ship in search of food, diving and racing about in
the strong winds.
It was time for the mandatory briefings after breakfast and Roger and John took
care of these important topics for us to follow when we are in the Antarctic region. The
IAATO presentation was an informative and important talk in order for us to understand
the rules and regulations involved in Antarctic tourism. John was up next with a
instructional presentation on how to feel safe when traveling in the zodiacs as well as a
step by step how-to for the infamous TAG board. It was going to be our first landing and
as the time grew near we were all getting very excited. After the mandatory briefings we
looked out from our portholes to see land and we all realized the dream was soon
becoming a reality. We next made our way to the boot fitting area, where the real chaos
began. This was a first for everyone, and though it took a little more time than expected,
we were able to get everyone fitted and ready to go. We were making our way through
Nelson Strait and turning the corner for Aitcho Island.
After lunch the call came to head to the mud room and get ready to embark on our
zodiacs and hit the shore. What a welcome committee we found waiting for us at the
from their rookeries and heading off to sea to find food. We gazed in amazement at the
hustle and bustle of the penguins as they were setting up their nests in order to start the
breeding season and subsequent raising of their chicks. Stealing stones was the order
of the day as we watched the hilarious actions of the penguins as they went about stealing their neighbours stones in order to build up their own nests.
We were lucky, almost spoiled on our first landing as we came across Weddell, Crabeater, Elephant and Fur seals all along the beach areas that we visited.[Note: fur seals first extended their range southwards in the 1990s. Before that very few were seen even in the northern Peninsula area. During the height of the fur sealing industry in the early 1800s, none was reported south of the South Shetland Islands. After their virtual extermination at South Georgia and the South Shetlands by the late 1800s their numbers did not recover until the early 1970s. From then on the
South Georgia breeding population increased by an average of 17% per year, and still
do. Large numbers of non-breeding males began to appear in the South Orkneys andSouth Shetlands, with a few very small breeding populations. However, between 1820
and 1970 no fur seals were reported from the Antarctic Peninsula.]
We watched the bird activity as there were huge numbers of Sheathbills, Skuas,
Giant petrels and Kelp gulls gliding in the air looking for any food or an opening
opportunity to get into the rookery and steal an egg. There was action everywhere as
we toured the island taking it all in and snapping photos like a machine gun. It was too
much to take in at once. Before we knew it, it was time to get back in the zodiacs and
make our way back to the ship, relax, and think of what we had just witnessed.
Frank was our information man as we met for recap and we were able to question
him on all the things we had seen and wondered about. Question after question was
directed at him, and as always he had the answers. One of these days we will stump
the master, but its hard to imagine.
We were invited by the captain to come to the lounge for a welcome glass of
champagne and to be introduced to him and his officers. What a way to end the day.
Dinner was superb as always and soon after we made our way back to our cabins to
soak up the memories of one of the most exciting days we have ever had. Sleep will
come easy as we get ready for another day of Antarctica tomorrow.
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